First, thank you so much! We are so happy you want to share your kitchen with us! 

We sell online from our website shop and list new pieces every 6-8 weeks. Notifications of sales are posted on our social channels and to our email subscribers. Things tend to sell out quickly so we post photos of upcoming products the week prior for you to see what will be available. Additionally we sell in person at various festivals, see our events page for a complete list. 

I do not do custom orders. Occasionally I do offer preorders on selected items already in my product line.

Yes! Sign up for our mailing list, follow us on Instagram and like us on Facebook to be notified.

Glazed Mugs $35 – $75 / Graphic Mugs $55 – $85 / Carved Iridescent Mugs $50 – $125 / Crystal Mugs $95 – $185 / Naked Mugs $75 - $115

Oxide Glazed Cups $35 – $50 / Graphic Cups $45 – $75 / Carved Iridescent Cups $45 – $95

Yes! Make an account ahead of time so your shipping info is saved. Log in a day or two before hand to view the items in preview and use our Wish List feature to make a virtual list of items you want. On the day of the update login a few minutes before to sign into your account and verify that your shipping address is correct. Once the items go live check out with the item you want most first and then go back for others. I will combine shipping on all items traveling to the same address and refund any overages after they ship.

Unfortunately after attempting several versions of a cart timer, this is just not possible with the amount of traffic our site gets at one time. I reccomend checking out with apple or google pay so you can have your credit card info saved and ready to roll for a fast checkout. Also if you are wanting more then one item check out with the first and then go back for the rest one at a time. I will combine all orders going to the same name and address and refund any shipping overages when the boxes ship. 

Starting the week prior to an update I will list the items that will be available for the restock. These preview listings will be available to view but not purchase up until they are scheduled to go live and then a purchase button will appear.

I ship worldwide and shipping will be calculated at checkout based on the distance. There is a $1.00 handling fee that includes professional packing, insurance, and immediate refund for any broken during shipping pots (which almost never happens). I do my best to calculate shipping but if there are any overages I will refund them when the pieces ship.

Most of my pieces ship in a 8x8x8 box that is around 2 lbs. Larger or combined pieces will be more.

I take all major credit cards online and in person. They will be processed through Square.com I do not save your credit card info on my website (for security reasons) and it will need to be entered each time you purchase for my online shop. You can also check out online using PayPal, Apple and Google Pay. 

Occasionally in the past I have had website glitches, breakage when packing, or other uncontrollable circumstances where a customer does not receive the pieces they purchased. In these instances I offer folks the opportunity to reserve a piece to replace their original missing purchase. Thank you for understanding!

I have an Etsy account where you can read my reviews however, I no longer use it as a sales platform.

Yes! We now offer wholesale pricing on select items. Mugs are not included, For more info please email me with your business name and resale info.

I hope you to love my work and if you don’t please send it back and I’ll refund the purchase price minus shipping costs, if you changed your mind. (Return shipping costs are buyers responsibility. Pots must be returned and arrive to me in the same condition they were sent.) If a piece arrives damaged or not as described I will refund the purchase price and shipping costs or replace the piece, your choice. 

Yes! Our pieces are microwave, dishwasher, freezer and over safe. they are great for hot and cold foods. Crystal mugs are safe for dishwashing and microwave as well. 

Please note, although luster ware is food safe and will take repeated hand washing trips through the dishwasher, eventually the overglaze will wear away. Treat your luster ware as you would fine china.

All of my serving and functional pieces (mugs, cups, bowls etc…) are food safe.

I do minimum of two firings when making my pottery. First, I bisque fire to cone 06. Then glaze fire to cone 6 in an electric kiln. I also use various lusters and decals that are done in a third firing.

They are adorable small handmade mugs you can back individual cakes in! They are microwave and oven safe for baking! You can homemake cake mix to go inside and then bake for 1.15 min in the microwave or about 25 min in the oven. Here is a yummy recipe and a mug cake recipe book available on Amazon. 

We travel a lot! Almost every two months in fact! We now call Frederick, MD our home although we still travel around the country doing festivals.

Yes! I have pottery shops at The Scarborough Renaissance Faire, New York Renaissance Festival, Maryland Renaissance Faire and Louisiana Renaissance Faire. In addition I do pop-up shows and demonstrations, please see my events page for specific dates and locations. 

I started in 1998 doing clay my senior year of high school. I have been making and selling professionally since 2005.

I use our speciality underglaze transfers sheets that are applied similar to a temporary tattoo. You can purchase them to use on your own work at www.elantranfers.com

I use Standard 630 clay. 

Yes! We hand mix most of our glazes except our  ^6 Amaco clear which we buy pre-made by the gallon. Our recipes are a combination of ones we developed over years of experimenting, recipes gifted from other potters, adaptations from ones found in various ceramic books and online forums. 

I love Diamond Core Tools! They are the best you can get for carving! The tools have spongy handles which help for long days in the studio and you can buy replacement blades as well. I prefer the yellow and turquoise handled ones for my work but I have used almost all of them and they each do fun different things! Steven also swears by their grinding bits for a Dremel.  

I use Speedball Underglazes as well as Amaco Underglazes I love the colors range and ability to mix to create new colors. I use 1" Hake brushes to apply them to leather hard pots before carving through. 

I use a food safe luster glaze called mother of pearl from Duncan. It is applied after the glaze firing and requires a third firing to ^020. 

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Sticker Mule! Follow this link for a $10 credit towards your first order and Ill get $10 towards my next one!

I own and recommend Skutt Kilns. I can't say enough good thing about their kilns and company! They are super easy to use, reliable, simple to maintain, and Skutt has some of the best customer service and tech support in the biz! 

In my studios I have 

1 - KM1018 - A two ring kiln great form smaller loads and since it's shorter its easier to load, I'm a shorty! It requires a 50 amp breaker and can be run on normal 200 amp household service.

2 - KM1027's - A three ring work horse kiln! Great for a studio potter wanting to consistently glaze fire to ^6. It requires a 60 amp breaker and can be run on normal 200 amp household service.

1 - KM1227PK - My newest and biggest kiln with the ability to go to ^10 even with its larger firing chamber! It has the new computer touch screen as well! This big boy is direct wired and requires a 80 amp breaker and must be hard wired to your electrical panel or a junction box. Although this can be run on normal 200 amp residential service it does draw a large amount of power so be sure to check what else you are planning to run at the same time. 

For a beginner I recommend whatever you can find or afford! Just get throwing! Craigslist and Ebay have some great deals. Also check with your local pottery supply places to see if there is a for sale / wanted board you can check. 

If you have some funds or want a wheel that is going to last your pottery journey get the best you can afford. The larger the motor the more clay you will be able to center. Look for a splash pan set up that makes sense for the way you throw. Do you want the ability to stand when you are working? Maybe get extendable legs. Look for a wheel with metal parts, they last longer. I have had Pacifica, Brent, and Speedball wheels and love them all! 

Pacifica by Laguna Clay was the first wheel I bought back in 1998 and it has served me well! 20 years later and I am just now doing my first repair on broken belt. After the quick fix, I'm sure to get another 20 out of it! The plastic table top is perfect to keep my work area clean and the splash pan snaps on easily so clean without spilling water everywhere. Update, I just bought a new Pacifica wheel and love having an extra in the studio. 

Brent is the Cadillac of pottery wheels people say and throwing on it is super smooth! They are a bit pricer than the other brands and although I love mine for is durability, ease, and low noise while spinning I will say I don't notice that much of a difference between it and the Pacifica that I love so much and is less expensive. 

If you are looking for a wheel good for travel, demos, or tight studio spaces try the Speedball Aspire. It's a great wheel with lots of power. I can make almost everything in my production line using this wheel and carry it with ease! Note - This wheel operates with a hand dial and does not come with a foot pedal, you will have to purchase this separate if you want that option. Also the motor is up top since it is a table top model so you will not be able to use bats over 12" wide. 

For throwing - I recently found Studio Pro plastic bats and I am in love! I still use the blue plastic bats but they tend to warp which the new Studio Pro bats do not. I love the durability of them and softness on your hands when throwing. In addition I can forget to scrape the excess clay off them and stack them anyway I want in the studio without fear they will get damaged or warp. 

For throwing large footed platters - I love the Studio Pro Mendex bats for this because there is no need to wire under the pot they will magically pop off when at the perfect dryness for trimming. Sometimes this takes a bit so I wrap the rim of the platter in plastic while its drying so the rim does not dry unevenly. 

For general studio use - I love Speedball bats because they have a ridge around the edge which makes picking them up from a flat surface easy. They are also smooth on the top making them great for underglaze color mixing pallets. 

I recently started using a Bison Tool for trimming that I picked up at NCECA and I am having trouble using anything else now! They have a handmade wooden turned handle making them super comfortable to hold. The metal never gets dull, worn down, or needs to be sharpened. The only issue is that they cannot be dropped because the metal is brittle and shatters pretty easily. Despite the fact that I have broken one of the two I own this way, I will be picking up a few more this year at NCECA. They are available online but it's fun to pick them out in person since each one is handmade and a bit different. 

I use a Giffin Grip to keep leather hard pots in the center of the wheel when I am trimming. This fits on your wheel head and snaps on and off to make trimming super easy! No more centering your pot and using wads of clay to hold the pot on the wheel. 

Metal rib, yellow sponge, flat wood rib for compressing bottoms of mugs, angled wooden tool for shaping foot, dirty girls foot fetish rib for making a rolled edge foot on mugs, wire tool, studio pro bats.

We have made three raised beds so far in our yard, two out of wood and one from wood and left over metal roofing. Below is how to build the wood only beds. You can use any wood although keep in mind rotting and such (Cedar would make a great choice although it is $$) I also gave dimensions based on 8' boards because you can fit them into a car that had a hatch to the trunk although you might need to make a couple trips.

Material List (for one 8' L  X 3' W X 23" H Raised Garden Bed

12 - 2" X 6" X 8'

8 - 2" X 4" X 8'

3 - 1" X 6" X 8' 

nails or screws

saw 

tape measure 

a angle square is helpful to make straight cuts

pencil 

After you have your materials use the above wood to cut the following pieces:

12 - 19" L 2x4's (verticals for framing all sides)

4 - 29" L 2x4's (horizontal for framing short sides)

4 - 8' L 2x4's (horizontals for framing long sides)

8 -  1/8" less then 39.5" L 2x6's (outside boards for short sides) (double check this measurement before you cut to account for any differences)

8 - 8' L 2X6's (outside boards for long side)

Assembly 

1. First build the four sides and then assemble them together. 

2. Long sides get four 19" 2x4's screwed between the top and bottom 8" 2x4's (one on each side and two spaced evenly in between.)

3. Short sides get one 19" 2x4 screwed between the top and bottom 29" 2x4 (one on each side)

4. After sides are assembled position upright and screw all fours sides together. 

5. We buried one side in the ground to help prevent the box from wracking (shifting side to side) but if you are not sinking in the ground you might want to add two pieces of 2x4 short ways across the bottom of the box evenly spaced to help the box not shift when moving it. Once you get it filled with dirt it will be fine. 

6. Level the box (or just eyeball it)

6. Next add the 2x6's to the outside. The 8' 2x6's go on the long side and the "1/8" less then 39.5" boards go on the shorts side. I started at the top of the box and worked down to make sure the 2x6s didn't stick up slightly above the frame and mess me up with the top piece later but this does mean they might stick down a bit low on the bottom of the box. (I'm talking like 1/4" not a big deal imo) 

7. Lastly measure, cut, and screw the 1x6's sitting rails to the top of the box. Starting with the short sides so you know how long to make the long sides.

You're done! Woo Hoo!